The
fourth day started early, well it seemed that way anyway. My room at
the Ty Newydd B&B in Porthmadog had a shower and it was a treat to be
able to jump from the bed strait in without having to make myself presentable
incase I bumped into someone in route to the facilities. After gathering
my things and packing I set out for a bit of an explore around the house.
An old municipal building that was originally a courthouse now converted
to a comfortable home business, the warm toned wood stairway was a nice
subject for a few shots with the Richardwho traveling Bear. Simon, Matt
and Sarah were up and about for the 8:30 am breakfast call we arranged
the night before, meeting in the homey eating area. The Landlady laid
on a full English breakfast with Eggs, Chips, Tomatoes, Fried Bread,
Sausage, Mushrooms, Cereal, Toast, Coffee, Tea, Juice and Beans. Beans
for breakfast? It was far too much food for us to eat but we put a huge
dent in it anyway, leaving the table well satisfied and me giving my
belt a bit of slack so I could breathe again.
Eager
to get on with the days events we dashed up to our rooms to collect
our luggage and met in the parlor to settle up the bill. Sarah and the
Landlady exchanged a few pleasantries and started into a chat about
the house and it's history. One of those conversations that is difficult
to end politely when you don't want to be rude. Sarah seemed trapped
and time was slipping by. I have not been known for my polite disposition,
being more of a "to the point" kind of guy, so I intervened with a comment
that made it clear it was time to go. That did the trick and we were
out the door. I am not likely to ever make it back to Porthmadog again
so I wanted to snap a few pictures of the village surrounding the B&B.
I went out side and down the road snapping a shot hear and there when I saw this little old lady standing across the road waving at me. She must have been 70 years old and barely 5 feet tall, just waving as hard as she could. I waved back and she gave me a frantic expression pointing down the street. When I looked it was clear what she wanted, a bus was on its way up the road and she wanted to get on. I just happened to be standing at the bus stop and she was trying to get me to stop it for her. I did as she requested and watch as she shuffled across the road. She smiled at me as I helped her up the steps into the bus. Turning to face me at the top step, she said a few words I didn't understand but presume to be "Thank you" in Welch. I responded with "You are more then welcome" and her eyes opened as wide as saucers with and expression on her face that you would be certain she had just seen an alien from outer space. The doors closed as the bus started to move so I waved and her tiny wrinkled hand slowly raised and waived back as the bus trundled out of sight.
Not
wanting to freak out any more locals I returned to the B&B where the
three other adventures were waiting, eager to get on with the days events.
We piled into the Vetra and made our way to Portmeirion over some of
the most beautiful country I have ever seen. There were lush rolling
hills painted with every hue of green imaginable bordered occasionally
by rocky coastlines. Quite spectacular. I was so fascinated with the
scenery that I have no idea how long it took to get to Portmeirion from
Porthmadog but it couldn't have been more then five miles or so. When
we did arrive the weather took a turn for the warm, heading toward hot.
Portmeirion
Village is the most amazing assemblage of buildings, gardens, courtyards
and woodland walks, tucked away in the cliffs above the Afon Dwyryd
River. Clough Williams-Ellis spent 50 years constructing the village
as a demonstration of how a location could be developed without spoiling
its natural beauty. Completed in 1976 it has become one of Wales's most
popular visitor attractions. The village was the location used for the
filming of the late 1960's television series "The Prisoner" and the
1976 Doctor Who Story "The Masque of Mandragora", which is why we came.
With
our reference material in hand we began exploring the village searching
out all the scene locations and shot angles we could find. Re-staging
many of the character positions with stand-ins from our party. Matt,
ever full of energy, zipped about pointing out the sights as he spotted
them. Simon did a good job keeping pace with Matt, but I just could
not keep up with them. The many staircases and steep roads required
me to maintain a steadier pace. Sarah took pity on me keeping me company
as I plodded along. It was getting unseasonably warm as the morning
progressed and by noon it was down right hot. The long walk down to
the waterside displays was quite refreshing and we lingered at the waters
edge for some time. The trek back up those same hills was an entirely
different story. I huffed and puffed my way back to the top and had
a nice long sit down when I finally did make it.
We
were having a difficult time finding one of the locations used in the
show, where Tom Baker jumps a particular railing. Simon started interrogating
shop workers for information while Matt and Sarah set out in a direction
that looked promising. I headed off in a different direction but was
suddenly surrounded by a crowd of men in tuxedos and women in fancy
formal dresses. I had stumbled into a wedding party that was in the
middle of picture taking and bouquet throwing. Obviously out of place,
I pushed my way out of the crowd and found a bench to sit on and wait
for the merriment to subside. After many minutes of waiting I abandoned
my quest for the elusive rail, starting back the direction I came, reconnecting
with Matt, Sarah and Simon. The full entourage of four made one last
attempt to find the rail Tom had jumped, we went back down the path
I had originally been assigned. This time the wedding party was gone
and low and behold there it was, the prize, not 50 feet passed the spot
I had given up at before. We snapped the pictures we wanted, announced
it a successful shooting location visit and headed back to the car.
The
next destination, Plas Brondanw, a mere 5 miles away, was the location
used for several scenes in the 20th anniversary story "The Five Doctors".
The Gardens were used for the capture of the First Doctor by the time
scoop and the castle folly the location used as the Eye of Orion Archway
in the Peter Davison opening scenes. Plas Brondanw was the ancestral
home of Clough Williams-Ellis, the builder of Portmeirion, and was built
around 1550. Clough began construction on the estates lavish gardens
in 1908 after his father had gifted the house and land to him. Plas
Brondanw is hidden away just off the A4085 with a barely distinguishable
sign identifying its location. You will drive right by it if you are
traveling faster then, say, a snail. We did. But Simon's quick eye spotted
the minor, tiny, minuscule road as we went by it. Quickly backtracking
to recover our route we turned onto the 8 foot wide road bordered by
a bottomless shear drop on one side and a vertical rock cliff on the
other. Plenty of room for our Vectra, that is until the 7 foot wide
trash truck met us head-on. Big Dirty Trash Truck. Little Cute Shiny
Rental Car. Who do you think gave in first? Of course we did, backing
down the grade to a spot that allowed the beast by and somehow for us
to turn around. I don't know how we did that trick; I had my eyes closed
the hole time. We decided not to make another run up the road in the
car and parked it in a clearing where the main road and the carriageway
to death met. The quarter mile walk was very pretty and a lot easier
on our nerves.
You
enter Plas Brondanw Garden through an unattended simple wooden gate
that hides the splendors on the other side. The back of the gate has
a coin box that you are expected to put your entry fee in. How trusting!
If the gardens were in America there would have been a armed guard on
both sides of the gate and a third person collecting the money. All
three would be talking on a cell phone and doing their best not to make
eye contact with you. We slipped the 9-pound fee (for all four of us)
in the box and stepped into the garden. What a marvelous place, the
perfectly manicured lawns, sculptures, ponds, exotic plants and buildings
are beautiful. The only thing I've ever seen like it is some of the
gardens at Disney World, but they don't come close to the splendor.
The second thing that hit me as we started exploring was that there
wasn't another sole in site. There was an elderly couple leaving as
we entered but that was it, no one else. This huge garden all to are
selves.
The
cherub filled pond with the little fireman fountain is just inside the
gate, larger then it appears in the story. Matt quickly found the grand
staircase that Richard Hurndall descends just before sensing the time
scoop approaching. We all took our turn taking the Doctors position
on the stairs for a photo. We set out in different directions in search
of the lawn area that was used when the scoop snatches the Doctor. I
later found Matt and Sarah in a large lawn area at the foot of the house's
main entrance. This is it, he ran from here down that way to the bushes
down there", Matt said, pointing to a meticulously trimmed 10 foot bush
at the far end of the lawn. We wandered in different directions around
the grounds for a while and I made my way back to the entrance where
I found Matt, Sarah and Simon talking to a man in big green rubber boots.
The
man turned out to be "Ron", the "Head Gardener and Caretaker" of Plas
Brondanw for the past forty years. Ron was there during the filming
of the story, protecting the welfare of the grounds from the hordes
of people and generally enjoying the spectacle of it all. The catering
van was a pleasant place to hang about he remembered. Ron told us of
his card games with Peter Davison, who he described as "The guy with
the wife that had a voice that sounded like crushed cats". Apparently
Sandra Dickinson (Trillian in the 1981 Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy
TV series) would pick up Peter occasionally after the shoot and they
would drive to their local accommodations together. Ron is still upset
with Peter, "Spitting feathers" as he said, because at the last card
game Peter went to get them some beers and never returned. Ron started
showing us around the garden identifying all the places the BBC filmed.
He pointed out where foliage painted canvas had been used to make pathways
look narrower, where painted plywood statues were placed to embellish
the look, where the crew had their equipment placed and the exact spot
that the cameraman and camera fell into the pond.
Ron
then told us the story of all the things that were left behind after
the crew departed. A sad story it was. When the location shooting was
all done and the BBC packed and left, they apparently left behind many
items. Most of it was trash that Ron disposed of but not all of it.
Richard Hurndall forgot to take his hat with him, not part of his costume,
just the one he wore between shots. He also left his black cape hanging
on a bush, Ron wasn't sure if it was part of the costume or not but
thought it was. Peter Davison left a pair of sunglasses behind at the
card game. Then there was the full Tardis that was left behind. Described
by Ron as having a top two sides and a front door, held together with
hinges. He went on to tell us that he didn't want to throw these in
the rubbish in case the BBC came back looking for them. He stored them
away in the garden's main garage to protect them until collected. "Did
the BBC ever come back for them?" we asked. "Oh no, they just sat there
collecting dust and taking up my storage space" Ron replied. "What happened
to them then?" Sarah Asked. "I burned them two weeks ago", Ron's reply.
All four of our chins hit the flagstone patio at the same time. "
BURNED
THEM?"
"You
see I'm retiring next month", Ron announces as he continues the story.
Because he was leaving, he wanted everything cleaned up and ready to
pass on to the next caretaker. He needed to make room in the garage
for a cheery picker that had to be moved inside. Ron asked the lady
of the house what to do with all the junk in the garage and she instructed
him to burn anything that wasn't used to maintain the grounds. Ron did
as instructed and held a grand bonfire that included a possiable OB
Tardis. "Is any of it left?" Matt asked. "No, it was a rite good fire,"
replied Ron. Stunned by the story we all said our Thanks to Ron for
talking with us and that we hoped he enjoyed his retirement.
We
stood there for a long time after Ron left discussing what we just heard.
Matt and Simon then set out to see if they could find the location of
the bonfire and possibly any remaining pieces of the Tardis. We found
a likely location just the other side of a gated hedgerow baring a sign
that made it clear it was not a public area and to stay out. That didn't
slow Simon down and in he went. Indeed he found the likely location
of the fire but there was little but ash left and not a single blue
Tardis bit to be seen. With some great photos and a wonderful story
to take back with us we called this another satisfying location visit
and decided it was time to move to our next spot. The "Eye of Orion
Archway"
We
made our way back out of the garden and strolled across the road on
to a stony walkway into a dense wooded area. The path led to a magnificent
view down into a gray slate colored gorge with a waterfall spilling
into it. Farther up the hill you could just make out through the trees
a stone structure at the top. Off we went dodging the mud and sheep
droppings. At the top was the Tranquil Eye of Orion. Looking like one
scaled down elevation of a castle it over looks a green rolling valley
on the other side. Officially called an Outlook Tower it was built in
1915 by the Officers of the Welch Guard as a wedding gift to Clough
and Amabel Williams-Ellis. During World War II the tower was used as
a military strong hold to repel the German invasion if that were to
happen.
Obvious
we were the first visitors in quite some time, other then the sheep
that apparently hang out on the bottom floor at night, we had the whole
mountain and castle to ourselves. We recreated some of the classic shots
from the show with Matt standing in for Turlough and Sarah doing the
Tegan parts. We explored the tower, scaling the staircase inside through
all three of the floors. The view from the roof is spectacular! You
can see why Turlough wanted to draw it. We lingered and looked, and
lingered and looked, it really is the most peaceful place in the universe.
If I ever make it to Wales again I will come back here with a picnic
lunch and make a day of it. But not today. We have to get moving if
we are going to make it to the next location. Nant Ffrancon Pass.
We
made our way back down the hill to our car in much less time then it
took to get up there. After a quick raid of the cooler in the trunk
(boot) we had an impromptu lunch of chips (crisps) and soda. The UK
has the most unusual selection of potato chips. I had chicken flavor,
there was a bag of bacon tossing around and a Chinese spare rib making
the circuit. Yes these are chips, I swear!! Nourished, we headed off
to find Nant Ffancon Pass, the shooting location of the 1967 story "The
Abominable Snowmen". All we had to go on was the name of the area and
the general map location. It is essentially just a spot in a mountain
range so we headed off down the road that ran parallel to it. We drove
along admiring how pretty the hills were snapping photos out the car
windows. Satisfied we had seen what we could of this location we turned
the car around and headed toward Llangollen and our reservations at
Cae Crwn Farm.
The
drive to Bryneqlwys on the A5 was relaxing with plenty of countryside
views to see. Once we turned onto the A5104 and zeroed in on the Farm
the roads became smaller and smaller, eventually turning into a dirt
trail barely the width of the car. We were not lost, it was just a rural
area. We were greeted at Cae Crwn Farm by the Landlady several dogs
two young children and several chickens. It was a real farm B&B, not
a I use to be a farm now I'm a B&B. The horses and sheep were up the
hill behind the house and the tractor was in the barn. We were showed
to our rooms. Simon's room would be the envy of any 6-year-old girl,
with frilly things all over. Mine, was basic and clean with a window
overlooking the chicken filled driveway. Matt and Sarah got the master
suite with a double bed and sink in the classic country look. We tossed
our luggage in the rooms and the landlady gave us the grand tour of
the house. Lounge with piano (leave it alone Simon), dinning room, large
bathroom with a huge deep maroon tub. Where is the shower? "Oh that's
over here, but its not working." Only a bathtub! I haven't sat in a
bathtub in 10 years. This should be interesting. The four of us went
out side to explore the property leaving the landlady behind. We were
quickly intercepted by the 8-year-old grandson who insisted he accompany
us on our walk. All my attempts to shake him from our heals failed miserably.
My only defense was to sacrifice the others and briskly walk up the
hill leaving them to deal with him on there own. The novelty of the
farm quickly turned to thoughts of food. We planned to have dinner in
Llangollen that evening so it was time to start making our way there.
We
started the 10-mile drive to Llangollen keeping to the major roads for
simplicity and avoiding the direct route through the back roads. When
we were within a mile of our destination we started seeing the most
amazing road signs. They had Daleks on them! We have to be in the right
place when there are Daleks on the road signs. I made Simon stop the
car so I could take a picture. We found our way to a public parking
lot in the middle of town only to find out that an antique fair was
being held in the town over the weekend so there were people everywhere.
We found our way to a pub that had an inviting menu and made our orders.
I decided on a Lamb Shank, being assured I would love it even though
I have never had a lamb meal that I liked. They were right it was great
and I had no trouble clearing my plate.
By
the time we finished the meal the sun was making it's final appearance
of the day so we decided to go over to the Exhibition Center where the
Doctor Who Experience is. Just a bit of advance scouting for the event
scheduled the next day. We walked there using the scenic path along
the River Dee winding up at the front door of Dapol. I peered into the
windows and snapped a few pictures. I was primed for a visit to the
exhibition and ready for a bit of rest.
We
made our way back to the farm and amazingly got there with out getting
lost once. In the Dark Even! The house was quiet and everyone agreed
to meet in the morning at 8:30 am for breakfast. We all scatted and
went to our rooms. I ventured back out to the bathroom to give the bathtub
a try. I will save you the gory details but it will be another 10-years
before I use a tub again. I am a reaffirmed shower man. Off to bed I
go, dead tired after a glorious day of Dr Who.